Tea Heaven

2008 September 27
tags:
by Tiger

This morning we are traveling to Hangzhou by car.  The couple hour drive to the East and a little South will take us to the lovely valley and the West Lake of Hangzhou.  According to the Lonely Planet, Hangzhou is one of the most traveled to spots in China:

Hángzhōu, capital of Zhèjiāng, is one of China’s most famous tourist sites. Located at the southern end of the Grand Canal and surrounded by fertile farmlands, the city has been a significant cultural centre for hundreds of years. Modern-day Hángzhōu, with its characterless architecture, has little to differentiate it from other Chinese cities. The main reason for coming here is to visit the legendary West Lake (Xī Hú), a true beauty in the midst of a concrete jungle.

For Me the main reason to visit Hangzhou is for the tea.  The Dragon Well or Longjing tea which is grown and roasted in Hangzhou is popular everywhere in China where tea is treasured.  There are few places in the world that enjoy Hangzhou’s reputation for tea.  Think Napa Valley for wine and Hangzhou for tea.

Tea is used for daily drinking and for special occasions here in China.  As an example, on the first day of the Chinese lunar new year a cup of spring tea is offered to the Goddess of Mercy in wish of yearlong well-being; another old custom is the gift of tea to the parents of a bride to confirm marital relations.

The tea houses that line West Lake and huddle in the valleys of surrounding hills of Hangzhou offer tea that has to be experienced. Every trip we make to China always includes a trip to the Hangzhou valley and a visit to the tea houses that are up country in the hills surrounding the valley.  Brews of tea are not cheap, but the price of a pot buys hours of lazing around, a favorite activity of locals and visitors as well.  We will be having lunch up-country and I will post some pictures.  We are late in the tea season but its still worth the trip to Hangzhou.

Green Tea is harvested in two main seasons according to my father-in-law a tea connoisseur.  The first and best tea is harvested “before the rains” in Spring time up until April the second week of May (referenced by The Leaf article Mary Lou Heiss) which starts the Monsoon Season.  The second tier harvest is “after the rain” from June till about now in late September.  So the tea that is available now is of lesser quality than the fresh Spring “before the rain” tea but its what we got so it will be enjoyed very much.  Over the past seven years drinking real tea and listening to the experts like my “Baba” Jennifer’s dad, I have developed a real discrimination for good tea.  There is nothing worse than a wine snob unless its a tea boor.  I try to stay away from snobbery but definitely stay away from ignorance first.

So its off to the car and a 2 1/2 hour drive to Tea Heaven.

Our trip to Hangzhou will include a visit to the hospital for Jennifer’s Uncle who has been ill for the past two years with prostate cancer.  Jo is now every bit of 90 years old and doesn’t get around much.  After we pay our respects and spend some time catching up with the family in Hangzhou we will hit the road for the hills.

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